owl

owl, Hand made, Modelina

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Owl
polymer clay project
by Christi Friesen
This project is real hoot!
I took some artistic liberties with this
owl, as youll notice by the dots in the
wings and head, just for funsies!
Premo brand polymer clay is my
recommendation for this project to make the owl color, mix white and ecru to make ivory. The
wings were a bit of the ivory blend, mixed with a touch of gold clay to darken it just a little.
Roll out a ball of clay - about the size of walnut. Roll the ball into an oval. Squeeze to make an
indentation between what will be the head and the body – about a one
third/two thirds kind of thing. You may need a tool
to really make the indentation sharp enough. Now
gently squish the head part down so the owl will
look like hes shrugging a little (its an owl thing).
Not all owls have those little feather horns on their
heads, but all
the really cool
ones do (well,
barn owls are
cool, and they
dont have
horns, but theyre the exceptions).
To make them, just
pull the clay and pinch a little.
Next use your thumbs to make
indentations for the eye area.
For owls, the best eyes are big ones – owls eyes are one of the most
noticeable things about them (all that seeing in the dark and stuff, I
guess). I have this cool friend glass artist who makes some fab eyes!
(you can find em on my website). Or you can use large
dark, round beads, or even yellow
glass beads (after baking, you can
dot paint in the center to make them
look very owly).
Press the eyes into the center of the
indentations. Press them deeply into
the clay.
©2009 Christi Friesen www.cforiginals All rights reserved. This project is not for reproduction
without permission, not for resale or redistribution without written consent.
Wings next – roll out two thick snakes of clay – one for each wing. Bend it a little, then slice off
the tips and press the cut ends against the clay body – in the shoulder
areas. Blend these into the body so it looks like theyre growing there
naturally. Oh, and while youre at
it, pinch the tip of the body into a bit
more pointed taper.
Feathers added to the wings are easy – just
some flattened teardrops from that darker mix.
Press them onto the
backside of the wing
thingys. Start with
longer feathers and
get shorter and
shorter as you press
them on, headed towards the body.
He should have about four feathers on each side, to make
spread out wings in full-swoop.
A few of the same flattened feather pressed behind the point of the
body make the tail.
©2009 Christi Friesen www.cforiginals All rights reserved. This project is not for reproduction without permission,
not for resale or redistribution without written consent.
Use some orange color for the beak (try orange clay and gold clay blended together). Roll out a
little rice-shaped bit.
Make a hole in the middle of
the head, right below the eyes
for the bead to fit into.
Now fit the beak clay right in
and press gently to attach it.
To help make the beak look like it
really is growing out of the face, not
just poked on, drape a little snake of clay (in the same color as
the owl body) over the top of the beak and blend it into the face.
On to the footsies. Four little ovals of clay,
pressed three together and the other behind
make the foot. (Ok, feet – make two). Blend
the clays together.
Sticking the feet on is easy. Since we made the wings in full-swoop
mode, the feet should look like theyre going to grab something … a tree
branch, a mouseburger… something. So press both feet on the bottom
of the body, then use a tool to press the feet
to the body in the center of the feet. Keep the tool in position and curl the feet around the tool.
Doesnt that look good?
Next, lets add feathery details to the feathers - a line
embedded down
the middle of each
feather, and more
lines on each side
of that centerline.
©2009 Christi Friesen www.cforiginals All rights reserved. This project is not for reproduction without
permission, not for resale or redistribution without written consent.
How about a bit more texture – little gentle lines on chest, face and shoulders to look like fluffy
downy featheryness. Use a tool with a more blunt point than a needle tool for softer lines.
A little feathery pattern in the ear isnt
accurate, but looks nice. Use a blade
tool or needle tool to add it if you
wanna.
Since the bead will need a
way to be strung, use a
needle tool to pierce a hole in the back, horizontally through the
upper back. Be careful not to smoosh the front while you do
this – just let the owl cradle in your hand and twist the needle tool back and forth to ease it
through.
Ok, finally, if you want you can add some clay or beaded
accents to make the piece a bit more stylized, I think it looks
nifty. Some balls of clay
pressed in place look
especially nice.
Some powder dusted around
the eyes draw attention to
them and ditto for powder on
the tips of the feathers.
Now pull the head forward (so he wont look like a zombie), and
prop it with some paper or tissue. Pull the wings forward and
prop them too (adds to the illusion of swooping flight).
Hes done! Time to bake!
Bake in a preheated oven at 275ºF (130ºC) for 45 minutes (or
according to clay manufacturers instructions. Let it cool
completely.
If you want, you can add a patina to bring out all the details of
the texture lines. Just brush some acrylic paint (I suggest a
nice medium brown color) onto a small area – get it into all the
cracks!
©2009 Christi Friesen www.cforiginals All rights reserved. This project is not
for reproduction without permission, not for resale or redistribution without
written consent.
Now wipe it off with a well-wrung-out sponge, leaving the
paint only in the lines and grooves. Move on to the next
small area. Repeat until the whole owl has been patina-
ed! Let it dry and then you can coat it with a clear varnish
if you like (you dont have to, it wont hurt to just be
patina-ed, or to just be clay with no patina, actually!).
Use a low gloss for this organic design (satin or matte is
best) because a high gloss shiny varnish would be yucky.
Now be ready for everyone to ask “Whooooo made that
wonderful owl?”
For this project you will need:
. polymer clay
– I recommend Premo brand – less than a 2oz. package each of: white, ecru,
gold, orange
You should condition your clay before you use it – run it repeatedly through a pasta machine, or
roll/fold/twist in your hands until the clay is soft and flexible!
. a pair of eyes
– the best ones to use for this project are the groovy glass lampwork eyes made
by my buddy Ralph McCaskey. You can find them on my site in the “products and tools” section!
www.CForiginals.com. Ralph of course carries them on his site too: www.NightSideStudios.com
If you dont want to, or cant use the glass eyes, you can substitute two large, round beads (about
4-6 mm size), or even two large round beads in a golden color that you can paint two dots of
black onto after the piece is baked to duplicate the look (use enamel paints, or coat the dots with
clear varnish to protect the dots from rubbing off).
All glass dolls eyes or taxidermy eyes can also be used.
. tools
– youll need a pasta machine (to condition and blend the clay), a needle tool, a sculpting
tool or two (may I suggest my favorite tools! check em out on my site in the products page.
. optional:
paint
for patina and clear varnish – any acrylic paint will work (I use and recommend
Liquitex BASICS) in a medium brown color. Also youll want a
paintbrush
to apply and several
small
sponges
. Any clear,
low-gloss varnish
compatible with polymer clay will work. My
favorite is an outdoor varnish available at some hardware stores and online: Rustoleum brands
Varathane (a water-based polyurethane) style #200241& 200261.
©2009 Christi Friesen www.cforiginals All rights reserved. This project is not for reproduction without permission, not for resale or redistribution without written
consent.
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