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[ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]//-->ONovember ’02 • Issue #5 • US $8.00ScaleTrainsModelingfor theO ScaleCraftsmanOooo...A Layout Contest — Over $1500 in prizes!Construct a Yard TowerSuperdetailingIM BoxcarsKingsbury TerminalO Scale in the UKBuild YourselfA CritterCJ O ScalersModular layoutNew Column...Easements for theLearning CurveNOW64 Pages!US $8 • Can $10Announcing The 1947GREAT NORTHERN EMPIRE BUILDER in O ScalePrototype collection of Paul C. Winters. Similar to PSC #17365-4 lettered Empire Builder.#173651947 Great Northern Empire Builder 8 car set, factory painted and lettered EMPIRE BUILDER:(1) RPO/Baggage painted #1100, (1) 60-Seat Coach painted #1110, (1) 48-Seat Coach #1120,(1) Coffee Shop/Dormitory painted #1140, (1) Dining Car painted #1150, (1) 8-4-4 Sleeper #1160,(1) 16-4 Sleeper painted #1170 and (1) 2-1 Buffet/Lounge/Observation painted #1190.Prototype collection of Paul C. Winters. Similar to PSC #17365-2 lettered Empire Builder.#17365-1#17365-2#17365-3#17365-4#17365-5#17365-6#17365-7#17365-8RPO/Baggage car painted Empire Builder colors, #1101, #1102 and #1104.48-Seat Coach painted Empire Builder colors, #1121 thru #1131.60-Seat Coach painted Empire Builder colors #1111, #1112, and #1113.Coffee Shop/Dormitory car painted Empire Builder colors #1141, #1142 and #1143.Dining car painted Empire Builder colors #1151, #1152 an #1153.Sleeper 8-4-4 painted Empire Builder colors #1161 thru #1166.Sleeper 16-4 painted Empire Builder colors #1171 thru #1177.Buffet/Lounge/Observation 2-1 painted Empire Builder colors #1191, #1192 and #1193.Prototype collection of Paul C. Winters. Similar to PSC #17365-5 lettered Empire Builder.Precisely handcrafted brass models, painted and lettered EMPIRE BUILDER.• Full Interiors with all new PSC tooling • Interior Shades • Complete Detailed Underbodies• Lighting System • Sprung and Equalized Trucks • Working Doors and VestibuleSee your local Hobby Shop and reserve yours today!Modelingfor theO ScaleCraftsmanIssue #5November 2002Editor/PublisherJoe GiannovarioArt DirectorJaini SimonContributing EditorsBobber GibbsJohn C. SmithGene DeimlingBrian ScaceOFeatures4812182730365355ScaleTrainsSuperdetailing Intermountain Box CarsWoody Mathews shows us how to go from good to great.Construct a Yard TowerDave Stewart’s tower will fit on any road. Part 1 of 2.Steam Locomotive Cab Curtains & AwningsHarry Hieke shares more of his superdetailing secrets.Subscription Rates: 6 issuesUnited StatesUS$36Canada/MexicoUS$50OverseasUS$75Mastercard & Visa acceptedCall 610-321-0858 duringEastern time business hoursDealers write for terms.Advertisers write for informationor visit our website.O Scale Trains ISSN 1536-9528www.oscalemag.comPublished bimonthly (6 times a year) byO Scale Trains Magazine,PO Box 238, Lionville PA 19353-0238© 2002 OST All Rights ReservedPrinted in the U.S.A.Contributors:O Scale Trainswelcomes your feature articles, photos, anddrawings. Such material should be sent to theabove address for possible publication. If weaccept, you will be notified immediately. Formore information concerning article preparationguidelines, please send an SASE to the aboveaddress and request our “Guide For Authors” orvisit our website.COVER:Dusk descends at Ricksburg on DavidStewart’s Appalachia & Ohio RR. The switchtower is the subject of a two part constructionarticle starting this issue.CENTERSPREAD - Pg 32:A Class S1 ErieBerkshire sits in the early morning fog after justtaking on a load of coal. The engine wasscratchbuilt by Harry Hieke for R. Harris Russo,M.D. The scene was photographed by K JebKriigel exclusively for O Scale Trains Magazine.Design-A-Layout Contest......and win a whole loy of prizesFill ’er Up!A photo collage of Michael Miller’s fantastic gas stationHow I Built My CritterJohn Fryant takes a Euro diesel and makes it pure U.S. honeyKingsbury Terminal RailroadMarshall Vine’s “Yankee” pike lives in Britain.Where The Eagle Meets The ChiefDay 1 of the 2003 O Scale National convention.Central Jersey O Scalers Modular layoutPete Hess says it’s all about the modules.Departments15172022424444464837505062Easements for the Learning Curve – Brian ScaceNarrow Minded – Bobber GibbsOST Dealer ListProduct News & ReviewsLetters to the EditorO Scale Hall of Fame – Rollin LobaughBuy, Sell, Trade AdsCrapola From The Cupola – John C. SmithProto48 Modeling – Gene DeimlingReader Feedback – Letters to the EditorEvents ListingAdvertiser IndexObservations – Joe GiannovarioO Scale Trains •3Superdetailing InterMountain(& other) BoxcarsJ. W. MathewsAuthor’s Note: This article is directed to readers who enjoybuilding models. If your interest is solely in ready-to-runitems, or in assembling kits without additions or modifica-tions, this article is not for you. Readers who enjoy a bit ofmodeling challenge, or who want something a bit differentfrom a standard kit-built car, however, may find some usefulinformation in the following material, which is offered as“food for thought.”The idea for this article arose a few years ago when I pur-chased a few Intermountain boxcar kits & began to assemblethem. Readers familiar with this brand know that these kits areamong, if not the, most highly detailed kits on the O Scalemarket—at least on the outside. One feature of these cars,however, disappointed me. The doors are not designed to slide.The instructions call for the doors to be glued into position(closed or partially or fully open) as desired by the builder.Now I realize that the cars are designed as close to scale aspossible, and that the designers did not want to have a modelwith out of scale door slides. But I could not help contrastingthese models with many others which had, or could be madeto have, working doors to allow carrying actual loads, ifdesired.Toy train boxcars by Lionel and other firms had slidingdoors. The older wood-body kits from Westbrook (1930s –1950s) and Walthers (1930s – 1970s), provided cast metaldoors which could slide in Z-bars. The door openings could besawn out of the car sides to access the car interiors.Following the wood body (overlaid with printed cardstock4•O Scale Trainssides or decals) designs, firms such as Athearn (later G F Men-zies, Reynolds, Loco Workshop & Old Pullman) and GeneralModels Corporation (later All Nation), offered cars with metalsides with the door openings cut out. The Athearn-style carsused thin wood sides underneath, which required the dooropenings to be sawn out. The GMC-All Nation cars used onlythe metal sides. The Athearn & GMC designs use thin,stamped metal doors, sliding in U-channels.Therefore I decided to try to go the Intermountain designers“one better” and see if I could make sliding doors that wouldnot spoil the looks of the car. Also, with the outside of the carslooking so nice, I figured, why not make the interiors resemblethe prototype so when viewing the interior through an opendoor, one sees something more realistic.First, a couple of thoughts on assembling the Intermountaincars: When assembling the underframe, take time to ensurethat it is positioned correctly—I managed to install a couplefacing the wrong way & had to pull them off. (I didn’t thinkthe instructions were quite clear enough as to which directionthe underframe should face.)Also, there are two ways to assemble the roofwalk on thesecars. The bottom of the roofwalk has molded-in studs whichcan be glued through holes (factory-spotted) in the roof. Thisis the “quick and dirty” way to assemble the roof. The otherway takes more time, but does not require drilling unsightlyholes in the roof and allows the studs to be removed, providinga prototype appearance when looking at the roofline of the car.The second method involves cementing the roof walk to itsindividual supports, as a prototype roofwalk would be mount-ed. Both these methods are described in the kit instructions;but for our super detailed model, I strongly recommend thesecond method, for greater realism. Paint the bottom of theroof to simulate galvanized steel.Note that work on the car interior should be performedbefore installing the roof or the underframe. In fact, if youwant to really show off the finished model, and remember tohandle it carefully, the roof does not have to be permanentlymounted. My experience is that the roof fits snugly enough onthe car to remain in place during normal operation. The carcan be lifted by holding the sides near their bottom edges. Or,with the doors open, the car can be lifted with the fingersthrough the doorways.Most (steam-era) boxcar interiors were lined with woodtongue and groove boards, until plywood came into use. Pho-tographs of car interiors in the old Car Builders’ Cyclopediasshow the lining typically arranged horizontally along the sidesand vertically on the ends. (My first attempt to line the insideof a boxcar took place a number of years ago. The model wasthe All Nation wood, outside-braced Rock Island 40’ automo-bile car. After gluing about thirty feet—actual, not scale—ofstrip wood to the car interior, I decided that if I ever lined aninterior again, I would do it an easier way!)To simulate the lining for the Intermountain car, I cut piecesof .020" thick Evergreen styrene, scribed at1⁄8" intervals. Thescale 6" planking might be a little wider than prototype, butcreates a nice-looking effect, I think. (I have since found .100"scribed siding, which is just under five scale inches and thuscloser to prototype spacing, about 51⁄4").One could use individ-ual strips, or scribe individual lines onto plain styrene sheet ifdesired, but that strikes me as a lot of work for very little gain.Plain styrene could be used to simulate plywood lining.The sides require four pieces, approximately 41⁄4" long x25⁄16" wide (23 boards). Two pieces are needed for the ends,approximately 25⁄16" square. These dimensions will provide aninterior lining that extends almost to the bottom of the roof,allowing the roof to seat properly when installed. Once thepieces have been fitted to proper size, paint the inside (scribed)surfaces with a plastic compatible “wood” color. Do the samewith the car floor. After the paint dries, cement the interior lin-ings in place.Depending on how precisely one measures, corner seamsmay be visible at the car ends. If this is bothersome, and fill-ing the gaps seems too tedious, cementing lengths of thinstyrene angle against the joints would hide the seams nicely, ifperhaps not exactly prototypical.With the increasing use of forklifts in freight handling fromabout the 1940s, greater wear on boxcar floors occurred in thedoorway areas. Manufacturers developed reinforcing plates tooverlay this area of car floors. Commonly, thin steel plates,perforated to save weight and allow bracing to be nailed to thefloor, were installed on many cars.From about the mid-1950s, nailable steel flooring (NSF)was used on some cars, though this was probably more costly.NSF could be simulated with steel color paint. I’m not surewhat sort of material might be used to simulate the perforatedreinforcing plates; perhaps some sort of mesh or speaker grillematerial might be suitable, if such can be located.A couple of notes on painting, while I’m thinking of it. Ihave read that wood car floors were perhaps sealed or chemi-cally treated, but not painted, either on top or bottom. TheIntermountain car undersides are factory painted, usually inthe body color. The under floor molding includes crosswisescribing to simulate the bottom of the wood floor, and varioussteel parts such as stringers, end angle braces, and the upperhalf of the center sill. The underframe molding is usually col-ored black, which results in a “two-toned” underframe paintjob when the car is assembled.To really dress up a model, the “wood” portions of theunderside could be painted the same wood color as used on theinterior. The steel portions of the underside could be paintedblack to match the underframe. It would be best to pre-paintthe underside before attaching any detail parts. Masking thesepieces would be quite a chore—I think a fine-tipped brush anda steady hand would be adequate for the task. But be preparedto devote some time to the job. (At this writing, I have notattempted to paint any underside wood, though I have paintedthe underfloor steel parts on a couple of my models.)OK, now that the interior (and perhaps the underbody) ofour car has been super detailed, let’s finish the job by makingthe doors work. First, assemble the doors per the instructions,but do not install the door guide pieces. Their bases will needto be modified.Fig. 1aRibsDoor Guide bases: Remove shaded portion. Make surface flushwith door. Lower edge of door may be filed thinner if door bindsin lower channel.O Scale Trains •5 [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]